From Antiquity to Modern Times - A Fascinating History of Shoe Decoration

Shoes have always been more than mere everyday objects—they are an expression of status, creativity, and fashion sense. This article takes you on a journey through the history of shoe jewelry: from the intricately engraved sandals of ancient Egypt to pearl-studded shoes in ancient Greece, from baroque rosettes and sparkling buckles to the modern charm trends of our time.

Ancient origins – jewelry for the feet

As early as 3,600 years ago, Egyptians made leather sandals dyed red and decorated with engravings of gods, animals, or ornaments. Such shoes were considered a status symbol: the wealthy wore additional jewelry or ornate patterns, while the less wealthy usually went barefoot or wore simple sandals [1].

In ancient Greece, embroidered shoes and boots, often decorated with pearls and ornaments, underscored the social status of noble women. Mythology also reflects this significance: Hermes' winged sandals symbolized speed, divine dignity, and aesthetic adornment.

In the Roman Empire, shoes were an important symbol of status. Senators wore the calceus senatorius, made of black leather with four bands, often adorned with a crescent lunula made of ivory or metal. Higher patricians were allowed to wear purple versions (calceus mulleus) – red or violet colors represented power and privilege. The shoe served not only for comfort but also to demonstrate social status [2] . Some high-ranking figures – allegedly Julius Caesar – are said to have even worn gold shoes or models with gold wire decorations, which was considered ostentatious luxury in contemporary circles [3] . This shows that shoe decoration was already a consciously used symbol of wealth, power, and position.

From Antiquity to Modern Times: Latchets, Rosettes and Baroque Luxury

After the end of antiquity, the joy of shoe decoration persisted, but it wasn't until the latchets of the 16th century that it experienced a new blossoming. These straps for lacing were decoratively enhanced by being adorned with lavish rosettes [4] . The so-called shoe roses consisted of ribbons twisted into rosettes or ruffled flowers [5] . They were often made of gold or silver and could be very expensive [6] Contemporary witnesses report that such rosettes were four to five inches in size and ranged from simple ribbons to richly embroidered flowers studded with precious stones. [7] For members of the common people, the price was equivalent to about a week's wages, while noblemen invested sums equivalent to the annual income of an entire family. [8]

Not only women, but also men adorned their shoes with these blossoms. Portraits from that era depict large roses on the shoes of princes and merchants. The luxurious rosettes were separate and could be worn on different shoes. In addition to the rosettes, precious materials such as brocade, velvet, and soft goatskin (kid) added extra shine. The opulence of this era underscores how important first impressions were and how much shoe decoration served as a sign of rank and wealth [9] .

Buckles: from practical closure to status symbol

As the magnificent rosettes lost their importance, buckles took center stage from the middle of the 17th century English chronicles report that buckles replaced the previous straps from 1660 onwards and were soon worn by people of all classes [10] Initially small and simple, they evolved during the 18th century into magnificent, removable pieces of jewelry [11] . Silversmiths and jewelers crafted elaborate buckles from silver and gold, set with glass pastes or precious stones such as jet, garnet, or diamond [12] . Those who could afford them owned dozens of pairs for different occasions [13] .

The manufacture of buckles became an important industry. In Birmingham around 1750, this industry employed about four thousand people and produced almost two million buckles per year [14] . Prices ranged from one shilling to several guineas, depending on the material and weight [15] , which by today's standards corresponds to between about €200 and several tens of thousands of euros. However, tastes changed towards the end of the century. Flat slippers could no longer support the heavy buckles, and in the wake of the French Revolution, opulent buckles were considered an aristocratic relic. Revolutionary deputies demonstratively removed their silver buckles [16] . Until 1791, producers tried in vain to halt the decline, but smaller bows and rosettes replaced the former splendor [17] .

Shoe clips and rhinestones: the 20th century

After a period of simplicity in the 19th century, decorative shoe decoration returned in the 1950s thanks to new clip mechanisms [18] . Shoe clips could be easily attached to pumps or sandals and gave a plain shoe a new look with rhinestone flowers or velvet bows. In the 1980s, shoe clips experienced a minor comeback [19] . Some fashion writers still rave about their versatility and how a pair of clips can turn a simple model into a "princess shoe" [20] . Although they never completely disappeared, they are now popular, especially in vintage circles, where they exude a touch of nostalgia.

Jibbitz: A family project conquers the world of Crocs

With the triumph of comfortable Crocs shoes at the beginning of the 2000s, shoe jewelry entered a new stage. The American mother Sheri Schmelzer began decorating the holes in her children's shoes with self-made clay and rhinestone figures after Crocs had sold around six million pairs in 2005 [21] . Together with her husband Rich, she founded the company Jibbitz in their basement. Within six months, sales rose from two hundred thousand to two million dollars a month [22] . In 2006, Crocs bought the company and paid the Schmelzers ten million dollars, with the option of a further ten million if certain goals were reached [23] . Jibbitz made shoe jewelry available to the masses and transformed the holes in Crocs into a stage for cartoon characters, letters and personal symbols.

Modern Personalization and Sneaker Culture

What was once reserved for children now inspires the creative freedom of sneaker culture. Sports brands and fashion magazines celebrate the opportunity to decorate sneakers according to one's own taste. Adidas emphasizes that shoe jewelry is a playful way to express one's own style; from delicate shoelace details to glittering charms and elegant beads, there are countless options [24] . Before you get started, the guide recommends cleaning the sneakers and planning exactly where to attach the charms [25] . Pins should have a flat back and can be fixed with a little glue [26] . Those looking for a less permanent solution can use dangling charms; these can be attached to the shoelaces [27] . For truly unique pieces, the blog recommends gluing shells or small medallions to safety pins or wrapping old chains around the sneakers as heel chains [28] . Colored shoelaces and threading beads or gold chains through the eyelets also create a personalized look [29] . In the end there is always the freedom to redesign your own pair as you wish [30] .

Fashion magazines see this trend as a comeback of maximalism. After years of minimalist aesthetics, playful accessories are returning; The Zoe Report describes how fashion-conscious people are currently decorating not only their bags but also their shoes with charms, beads, and ribbons [31] . Jewelry designer Ashley Harris emphasizes that the love of shoe charms is a mix of nostalgia and authentic self-expression [32]. She points out that this trend was inspired by Crocs Jibbitz and has now spread to various types of shoes [33] . At a New York Fashion Week event, her label decorated shoes with coral, shells, and small fish figures [34] – an example of how limitless the imagination has become when it comes to personalization.

2025: The Shoe Charm Boom

These small decorations have now become a must-have, transforming shoes into canvases for self-expression. [35] A report in Footwear magazine notes that shoe charms are "taking center stage" and captivating both children and style-conscious adults . [36] From smileys to initials to pop culture icons, brands and independent creators offer a seemingly endless array of choices [37] . According to a spokesperson for one accessories retailer, the industry is experiencing huge demand; people want to personalize their shoes without buying a new pair [38] . Charms can be easily swapped, collected, and shared with friends [39] . For younger wearers, they are a way to show off favorite characters, while adults use them to celebrate special occasions or memories [40] . Social media platforms such as TikTok and Instagram are fueling the trend as users share their creative combinations [41] . Major shoe brands are tapping into the craze by releasing official charm collections or collaborations with artists, often in limited editions [42] . Charms are becoming conversation starters and expressions of an individual's attitude [43] ; given the mix of fun, fashion, and personality, the magazine expects the trend to continue for many years to come [44] .

Sneakeez – The next level of a centuries-old tradition .

The tradition of shoe jewelry continues in Hamburg, too. Founded in 2025, Sneakeez brings this cultural heritage into the present. The young company pursues the mission of "bridging the gap between sneaker culture and individual expression." What was once reserved for a wealthy elite is now possible for everyone: Sneakeez makes shoe jewelry accessible, transformable, and playful.

Sneakeez charms are the modern equivalent of the decorative elements of bygone eras. They can be easily attached to shoelaces or eyelets, worn securely, and swapped out at any time—perfect for those who like to regularly change up their look.

The name Sneakeez is derived from the modern cult shoe, the sneaker, and also plays on the English word "easy." It stands for effortless customization of your shoes—and the logical evolution of a centuries-old tradition. With just a few simple steps, each sneaker becomes a canvas for creative self-expression and a unique piece that reflects your personality.

Conclusion: Tradition and future of shoe jewelry

From the opulent rose jewelry of the 17th century to the sparkling buckles of the Rococo period and the versatile shoe clips of the 20th century to modern charms, shoe jewelry tells a story of creativity and self-expression. Each era brought its own unique forms, but the desire to embellish shoes and make a statement has remained constant. Today, shoe charms are experiencing a real boom: They are affordable, interchangeable, and offer endless possibilities for customization. Sneakeez builds on this tradition, transforming every pair of sneakers into a unique work of art. Those who are passionate about shoe jewelry are not only adding a fashionable touch, but are also continuing the centuries-long history of personal expression.